BIRD WITHOUT NUMBER

That’s a slight exaggeration, of course, but Thailand is a bird-watcher’s paradise with about 1,000 spices in the world, and more birds than in the whole of Europe. The best place to see them is at Khao Yai. This national park, some three hours drive from Bangkok has a confirmed 318 species within its borders. Most famous are its four species of hornbill, but look too for the silver and Siamese fire back pheasants, several species of pigeon and owl, and perhaps the world’s fastest bird, the brown needle tail. Among winter migrants, staying mostly from October to April, are the Siberian blue robin, mountain hawk eagle and several leaf-warblers, wagtails and stonechats.

The next best bird haven has a very different range of species. It is Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park in Prachab Khiri Khan. It contains Thailand’s most important wetlands: Extensive freshwater marshland, coastal mud flats and mangroves. It harbors an amazing variety of water, wading, shoreline and sea birds, both residents and migrants. Among its 275 confirmed species are painted storks, several different kinds of herons and egles, harriers, stilts and egrets. The spotted greenshank is one of the park’s rarer visitors. The park now provides hides for seabird watching. Its mangroves should be carefully investigated. Another bird watcher’s treat is Kaeng Krachan National Park just west of Hua Hin on the rugged border with Myanmar. It has 250 confirmed species, including an astonishing number of great hornbills along with serpent eagles, scarlet minivets, kalej pheasants and several kinds of peacock. Kaeng Krachan is also one of the last refuges for the woolly-necked stock. Birds, is it? Central Thailand is certainly the place.