WRITTEN IN THE STARS

If you go to any colourful Thai market and even to some placid Buddhist temples, you will find in some quiet corner an astrologer waiting for custom. He will ask the date and time of your birth. With that scant information and his zodiacal charts, he’ll tell your fortune. It has been that way for thousands of years. But then about 150 years ago, a new form of knowledge of the stars, western astronomy, came to Thailand. It was brought here by one of this country’s greatest kings, Rama IV or King Mongkut. The king was so enthused with this new knowledge that he ordered an observatory built at his hilltop palace in Phetchaburi province. He quickly became adept and predicted a total eclipse of the sun near Prachuab Khiri Khan on August 18, 1868. Almost everyone was skeptical, including the court astrologers who believed such an event was impossible. So a great expedition was organized to what is now Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park to which many foreign scientists were invited. There, the king’s prediction was dramatically confirmed-a six-minute total solar eclipse that had the court astrologers calling out in awe. Today, star-gazing is practiced by anyone with binoculars or their own telescope. You can even join the Thai Astronomical Society on one of their regular trips. Generally, these go off to a remote location such as a hilltop in a national park or an island in the gulf where the night sky is clear. You can either share their big telescope or use your own equipment. Or of course you can follow in King Mongkut’s steps. His Phetchaburi observatory is still there and so is Phra Chomklao Science Museum at Wah Kor.

UNSEEN THAILAND : WATERFALL IN TRANG

Take a Break: Unseen Thailand Waterfall in Trang

MANGROVE FOREST

Time was when every tidal mud flat in the Gulf of Thailand was covered by mangrove forest-all 744 square kilometers of it. Now, much of this vegetation that thrives in salt and brackish water and fosters some of the most productive environments on Earth. But enough remains-and more is being regenerated-for you to see what it is. As a first impression, it’s spooky. A good place to start is Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park in Prachuab Khiri Khan where the mangroves are extensive and well-developed enough to generate some atmosphere. You’ll find yourself navigating an eerily quiet, enclosed world, moving from one twisted exposed root to the next. The canopy is barely above your head and lateral vision and orientation is similarly limited by the roots around you. But this protected world is an ideal habitat for a wide variety of land and water life. As all this goes about its business-the small creatures finding shelter, the larger ones food-the mangroves feed off their own fallen and decomposed leaves and constantly colonies new territory. They thus protect the coastline from storms and help to build up new land. Their timber was greatly prized for firewood and charcoal as were the barks of some species for dye. Mangroves were particularly valuable when the central Thai lifestyle was water-based. Most easily accessible by small boat, they were a kind of larder. Today, much of the cultural ambience of mangroves has been lost as food comes more easily from the local store and cooking fuel out of a gas canister. But search out your own small patch somewhere along the coast and spend some time in it. This was an important part of what it was to be a coast-living Thai.

ESCAPE FROM THE CONCRETE JUNGLE

ESCAPE FROM THE CONCRETE JUNGLE

The West’s concrete jungle now threatens the world, but if you want to see the real thing, genuine primary forest that has never been disturbed except by you, it is only two to three hours drive from Bangkok. Go west to Kaeng Krachan National Park, the country’s largest pristine forest that offers superb walking trails to study nature. Be prepared from some truly awe inspiring trees, 70 metres tall and more. Where the forest is open, it is like being inside a cathedral. Most of the trails cluster around the single 36-kilometre road inside the park, but serious jungle treks of up to two weeks through rugged terrain can also be organized. Perhaps the best trip is to the 18-tier Tho Thip Waterfall, a full day’s outing with about three hours walking each way.

If that sound a bit too serious, drive north instead to Khao Yai National Park, the country’s oldest and third largest. It takes about the same time to reach and has at least 13 trails of varying levels of difficulty. Although these are more popular than those at Kaeng Krachan, you will still be in or near real jungle, so take a guide and keep your eyes peeled for the local wildlife. Other excellent walking trails can be found at Khao Chamao-Khao Wong National Park, an easy drive from Rayong on Eastern Seaboard, at Chalerm Rattanakosin National Park in Kanchanaburi and, closet of all to Bangkok, at Nakhon Nayok about an hour’s drive north of city. Almost all parks have at least some accommodation and food. Park staff at the headquarters will be able to advise you on the best walks. You will see spectacular caves, fantastic waterfalls, dramatic vistas of forest as you wind up hill and down dale and follow the banks of crystal streams. The trails were often originally made by elephant. Concrete? Give me a break!

LIFE IN THE WILD

In the past, abundant wildlife could be found as close to Bangkok. A local writer once noted that “five to six hundred species of plants are know to grow wild in Bangkok” Although this magnificent cornucopia of plants, herbs and animals is less evident now than then, it still exists. Some of the best places to study it are the central region’s wildlife sanctuaries, research and breeding stations, open zoos and national parks. Huai Kha Khaeng and Thung Yai Naresuan wildlife sanctuaries in Uthai Thani and Kanchanaburi provinces respectively are the best places to start. These contain such superb creatures as guar, the massive yet shy forest ox, and banteng, the wild red cattle. They also contain well over 40 other mammal species including bears, leopards, tigers, elephant, tapir, deer, gibbons, monkeys and macaque as well as a wide range of vegetation types.

Khao Yai National Park is another excellent nature study site as many wildfire research projects on such creatures as gibbons, tigers and hornbills are being conducted here.

Khao Khieo Wildfire Sanctuary in Chon Buri province has an open zoo which makes its wildlife particularly accessible. Species include gaur, dusky langur, barking deer and brow-antlered deer. In one of the largest aviaries in the world, it also has the Sarus Crane and black necked Stork which may one day be re-introduced to the wild. Its breeding station supports and studies many other species. It also has the only elephant twins born in captivity. Three types of crocodile are being bred and studied at the nearby Crocodile Farm while over in Kanchanaburi’s Sadong Research Station, banteng, sambar and serow, a kind of goat-antelope are being studied and bred. Not only is Thailand’s amazing wildlife as prolific as ever, but through activities such as these it is also more accessible than ever before. And it will remain safe into the future.

BUTTERFLY PARADISE

BUTTERFLY PARADISE

Nobody knows how many wonderful butterflies Thailand has, but there are well over 1,200 species. All that is certain is that there are more of these delicate ephemeral creatures here than in almost any country in the world. Their dispersal is so broad that you can go almost anywhere to enjoy their brilliant profusion. If you visit Thung Yai Naresuan and Huai Kha khaeng wildlife sanctuaries, now World Heritage sites, as the prairie flowers blossome you will see the whole expanse of grassland shimmer with a dazzling range of vividly hued butterflies. If you visit the mud flats and wetlands along the coast and particularly in Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, you will find to totally different yet equally copious assortment of species feeding on the nectar of the grasses and sedges as they flower. In the forests, whether evergreen or deciduous Thailand’s astonishing abundance of flowering trees calls forth an answering wealth of birds, butterflies and bees. If you are out in the forest at night, you could well see the world’s largest moth, spectacular both for its bold brown and cream markings and for its incredible eight-inch wingspan. As they flutter their jinxing flight in the bright morning sunlight, paradise comes down to earth when Thailand’s glorious butterflies are out. What fantastic beauty!

BIRD WITHOUT NUMBER

That’s a slight exaggeration, of course, but Thailand is a bird-watcher’s paradise with about 1,000 spices in the world, and more birds than in the whole of Europe. The best place to see them is at Khao Yai. This national park, some three hours drive from Bangkok has a confirmed 318 species within its borders. Most famous are its four species of hornbill, but look too for the silver and Siamese fire back pheasants, several species of pigeon and owl, and perhaps the world’s fastest bird, the brown needle tail. Among winter migrants, staying mostly from October to April, are the Siberian blue robin, mountain hawk eagle and several leaf-warblers, wagtails and stonechats.

The next best bird haven has a very different range of species. It is Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park in Prachab Khiri Khan. It contains Thailand’s most important wetlands: Extensive freshwater marshland, coastal mud flats and mangroves. It harbors an amazing variety of water, wading, shoreline and sea birds, both residents and migrants. Among its 275 confirmed species are painted storks, several different kinds of herons and egles, harriers, stilts and egrets. The spotted greenshank is one of the park’s rarer visitors. The park now provides hides for seabird watching. Its mangroves should be carefully investigated. Another bird watcher’s treat is Kaeng Krachan National Park just west of Hua Hin on the rugged border with Myanmar. It has 250 confirmed species, including an astonishing number of great hornbills along with serpent eagles, scarlet minivets, kalej pheasants and several kinds of peacock. Kaeng Krachan is also one of the last refuges for the woolly-necked stock. Birds, is it? Central Thailand is certainly the place.

WHITEWATER RAFTING

It’s Level 5, the toughest there is for whitewater rafting, and there are several more hours of it, rapids swirling through breathtaking country all at the same steep pitch. If it’s excitement you’re looking for, you’ve come to the right place. That can be either the wild Kang Hin Peung river through the open jungle of Khao Yai National Park, the turbulent river Kwai in Kanchanaburi’s rainforest or, most challenging of all, the steep upper reaches of the Mae Nam Phetch or Phetchaburi river in Kaeng Krachan National Park in Phetchaburi province. Whether you choose inflatable dinghies at Khao Yai or on the Mae Nam Phetch, or a bamboo raft on the Kwai river, you need to be here between July and October when the rivers have been swollen by rain. That is when much of the hinterland of the national parks becomes impassable. That is when, moving in by four-wheel drive and on foot, you will find one of the greatest thrill of your life. Make sure your tour guides train you first. They should tell you what to expect, explain the safety equipment and run briefly through the procedures. Then you step aboard your raft and you’re off on the turbulent rushing river. You probably get more of a kick with an inflatable, but bamboo rafts offer the additional challenge of handling a set of bucking poles that have been lashed together and are themselves awash with the river. This is the way it used to be done. Armed with only your paddle, you’ll need all your energy just to stay on board! Level 5 means a river in spate with a wild, rapid current and difficult rapid. Many of these are steep. But there are quite moments too when you can pull ashore for a meal or a rest or just to soak in the majestic tranquility of the deep forest. At those times, you’ll feel that cities, clocks or cars never existed.

DIVING AMONG CORALS

Genesis Stock Photo

You wouldn’t think skeletons could be attractive, would you? Yet people come from all over the world to dive on marine exo-skeletons (that’s a skeleton built up outside the body, like a lobster) in the Gulf of Thailand. Actually, these skeletons are usually called coral. Unless you decide to snorkel or have your own scuba equipment, you may want to start at Pattaya where most of the dive shops are. They have the gear and the expertise and they knowwhere the best coral is. Just follow them. But if you are on your own, here is a good tip: Go as far away as possible. In Thailand’s central region that means Ko Chang National Park in Trat province down by the Cambodian border or Khao Laem Ko Samet National Park in Rayong province. It takes most of one day to get to Ko Chang, about half a day only to reach Ko Samet. Either way, if you have the time, it is worth it. Diving or snorkeling amongst the coral at either place is stupendous fun. Ko Chang National Park is of course better. It consists of about 50 islands scattered over about 650 square kilometers. Dive shops can be found across Ko Chang itself. Spectacular dive sites on the west of the islands are just 20 minutes away while Ko Wai, Ko Hradat and Ko Mak are all good. If you know your way around the sea, try to get out to some of the smaller islands. Then settle down for some serious enjoyment. The amazing range of colours and shapes you will see delight you, both hard and soft corals being found here. Shifting in and out of the coral in the filtered sunlight, you will also find little schools of brightly coloured tropical fish. It won’t take long to dazzle you, dumbfound you, turn you into an exo-skeleton freak. Happily these ones, by their outgoing nature, don’t lurk in cupboards.